5 Fast-Growing Landscape Trees in Georgia

Need help determining which trees will fill in your Georgia landscape the fastest? Knowing which fast-growing tree species to plant will help you quickly create a lush and well-shaded landscape.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com gathered species, planting, and growth information for five landscape trees hardy to the state of Georgia.

1. American Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

The American sycamore is a deciduous, wide-canopied tree with a massive trunk and open crown full of sizable, crooked branches. Older tree trunks slough off in large scales, leaving a smooth, white inner bark.

Sun – Grow your American sycamore in full sun.
Soil – 4.0-4.5 pH. This species thrives in clay, sand, or loam soil.
Water – Watering should be based on the soil. At a depth of two inches – if moist, there is no need to water. If dry, water your tree.
Growth Rate – 2 to 3 feet per year
Mature Size – This species reaches 75 to 100 feet in height and spread.
Lifespan – 250+ years
Landscape Uses – Shade, Privacy, and Specimen (American sycamore is typically recommended for planting on strip-mined, disturbed, saturated, and overworked land).
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

2. Oak (Quercus)

Identify oak trees by their bark (with deep fissures and ridges, and by their deeply lobed leaves with pointed or rounded tips. Oak wood is renowned as the most durable, hard, and fungal-resistant wood, mainly used for making high-quality oak furniture and doors.

Sun – Grow your oak tree in full sun and partial shade (4 hours of direct, unfiltered light daily).
Soil – 5.0 to 7.0 pH. This species thrives in acidic, alkaline, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained, and clay soil.
Water – Oak trees can use up to 100 gallons per day during the growing season, and this is why it is crucial to make sure this species has a consistent water supply.
Growth Rate – 2 to 3 feet per year
Mature Size – This species reaches 40 to 80 feet in height and a spread of 60 to 100 feet.
Lifespan – Up to 400 years
Landscape Uses – Shade and Specimen (Quercus trees are also crucial to wildlife, and a various species depend on oaks for their survival).
Hardiness Zone – 7 through 10

3. Maple (Acer)

Most maple species are deciduous, and many are renowned for their autumn leaf color. Identify a maple tree by its leaves. They are recognizable by their opposite arrangement, and a typical maple tree leaf has 3 to 9 veins in each leading to a lobe.

Sun – Grow your maple tree in full sun and partial shade (4 hours of direct, unfiltered light daily).
Soil – 5.0 to 7.0 pH. This species thrives in moist, deep, and well-drained soil.
Water – Maple trees require about 11 gallons of water per week, while young maple trees need more, especially in drought or hot conditions.
Growth Rate – 12 to 18 inches annually
Mature Size – This species reaches 40 to 60 feet in height and a spread of 35 to 45 feet.
Lifespan – 100 to 400 years (depending on species)
Landscape Uses – Shade, Privacy, and Specimen (with their beautiful foliage and majestic form, they can add significant curb appeal to your home).
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

4. Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)

Sweetgum grows into a large tree with a long, cylindrical trunk, and a significantly pyramidal crown. The tree’s foliage is alternate, simple, and star-shaped, with 5 or 7 lobes.

Sun – Grow your sweetgum in full sun.
Soil – 5.0 to 7.0 pH. This species thrives in slightly acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained, wet, and clay soil.
Water – Mature sweetgums tolerate occasional drought and periodic flooding and require little care.
Growth Rate – 1 to 2 feet annually
Mature Size – This species reaches 60 to 75 feet in height and a spread of 40 to 50 feet.
Lifespan – 100 to 150 years
Landscape Uses – Shade and specimen (In fall, the star-shaped foliage changes from green to yellow, and then to red, and sometimes purple, making this species ideal for colorful landscaping).
Hardiness Zone – 6 through 9

5. Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Tulip poplars are large deciduous trees that take their name from their greenish-yellow heartwood and unique tulip-like flowers. The tree species has alternate, palmately veined, 4-lobed foliage with a smooth margin. The tree’s bark is smooth and dark green on young trees.

Sun – Grow your tulip poplar tree in full sun and partial shade (4 hours of direct, unfiltered light daily).
Soil – 4.5 to 7.5 pH. This tree species thrives in moderately moist, deep, well-drained, loose-textured soil.
Water – Give your tree 5 to 7 gallons of supplemental weekly irrigation, especially during the summer and early fall.
Growth Rate – 2 to 3 feet annually when planted in full sun.
Mature Size – This species reaches 70 to 120 feet in height and a spread of 35 to 45 feet.
Lifespan – Up to 300 years
Landscape Uses – Shade, Privacy, and Specimen (In large lawns, tulip trees are typically grown as shade trees).
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

Fast-Growing Trees in Georgia

In this article, you discovered essential species and growing information about five tree species hardy to Georgia’s temperate climate.

Knowing which fast-growing tree species to plant in your Georgia landscape will help you quickly develop your privacy screening, specimen, and shade trees.

Planting slow-growing trees will leave your landscape struggling to fill in a privacy screen or provide much-needed shade.

Sources:
uky.edu/hort/American-Sycamore
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/quercus/
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/maple/
naturewalk.yale.edu/trees/altingiaceae/liquidambar-styraciflua/american-sweetgum-46
nrc.gov/docs/ML0932/ML093270599.pdf

5 Best Fruit Trees to Grow in Georgia

Avoid buying and planting the wrong fruit tree that will not survive the Georgia climate. Knowing which fruit trees to plant in Georgia will remove doubt that they thrive and you’ll be able to harvest the fruit you love.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com gathered the following planting and growing information on 5 fruit trees hardy to the state of Georgia (hardiness zones 6a through 9a).

1. Apricot (Prunus armeniaca)

The apricot tree has an erect growth habit with a spreading canopy. The tree’s leaves are ovate with a rounded base, pointed tip, and serrated margin. The tree produces white to pink flowers (singly or in pairs) and fleshy yellow to orange fruit.

Sun Requirements – This species will thrive with six to eight hours of daily sunlight
Watering Needs – Apricot trees are thirsty, and they like about an inch of water every ten days to two weeks
Soil Preference – Well-drained loamy soil is best for your apricot tree to grow a robust root system
Ideal Soil pH – 6.5 to 8.0
Harvest – Fruits are ripe for the picking from early July to early August
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

2. Plum (Prunus americana)

Plum trees are typically small to medium-sized deciduous trees with rounded crowns. Plum leaves are oval or elliptic in shape with serrated margins. Flower buds form with leaf buds in early spring, with large, white flowers appearing in April.

Sun Requirements – This species will thrive with six to eight hours of daily sunlight
Watering Needs – Once established, a plum tree requires regular watering (especially in the dry summer months). Deep water your plum tree once every 14 to 25 days
Soil Preference – This species grows and produces the best fruit in well-drained, moist, and fertile soil that is rich in organic matter
Ideal Soil pH – 6.0 to 6.8
Harvest – Plums are typically ready to be harvested from late summer into fall
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

3. Peach (Prunus persica)

A low, broad tree, 15 to 25 feet tall with an equal or greater spread, Peach trees form a rounded crown with upwardly-reaching branches clothed in three to six-inch-long, dark green, deciduous leaves.

Sun Requirements – Peaches grow best in full sun (at least eight hours of direct daily sunlight)
Watering Needs – Peach trees do not require lots of daily water (only water sufficiently to prevent drought stress)
Soil Preference – Peach trees require well-drained, moderately fertile soil
Ideal Soil pH – 6.5 to 7.0
Harvest – Peaches are typically harvested when fully ripe (late June through July and into August). With peaches, it’s crucial to harvest them at the right time.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 10

4. Apple (Malus pumila)

Also referred to as Malus domestica, Malus sylvestris, Malus communis, and Pyrus malus, the apple is a small tree that can reach 25 feet in height with a crown spread of 25 feet. The tree’s leaves are simple, oval in shape, have small serrations along the margin, and appear alternately along the branches.

Sun Requirements – Apple trees thrive in full sun (at least eight hours of direct daily sunlight)
Watering Needs – This species requires about one inch of water or rainfall every 7 to 10 days
Soil Preference – Apple trees tolerate a range of different well-drained soil textures, depth, acidity, and structure
Ideal Soil pH – 5.8 to 7.0
Harvest – Some apple varieties will be ready to harvest as early as July, while others develop their peak flavor during cold autumn days, ripening in October or November
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8

5. Cherry (Prunus avium)

Prunus avium is a medium-sized deciduous tree typically cultivated in landscapes. Its leaves are alternate, simple, and toothed on the margin. The tree’s fruit is a fleshy drupe, yellow or red, with a large pit.

Sun Requirements – Cherry trees thrive in full sun (at least eight hours of direct daily sunlight)
Watering Needs – Once mature, this species requires one deep watering per month
Soil Preference – Fertile and well-drained sandy, loamy, or clay soils all support this tree species
Ideal Soil pH – 6.0 to 7.0
Harvest – Cherries are well-known as the last trees to bloom and the first to harvest. For most cherry crops, harvest season typically begins in mid-April and runs through late July
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 7

BONUS – Pear (Pyrus communis)

The common pear produces the familiar teardrop-shaped fruit seen in stores. Many varieties are available with varying fruit sizes, shapes, and colors. The tree is typically grafted onto dwarf rootstalk to achieve and maintain a shorter size.

Sun Requirements – Pear trees produce the most fruit when planted in full sun (at least eight hours of direct daily sunlight)
Watering Needs – Once every 10 to 14 days is sufficient for this species
Soil Preference – Pear trees thrive in well-drained sandy loam soil
Ideal Soil pH – 5.9 to 6.5
Harvest – Pears can typically be harvested from August through October
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 10

Growing Fruit Trees in Georgia

In this article you discovered planting, hardiness zone, and growing information about 5 fruit trees hardy to Georgia’s temperate zones.

By planting fruit trees hardy to your region, you can grow and harvest the fruit you want when you want it and have a stunning tree to fuel your conversations.

You don’t have to guess and leave growing a thriving fruit tree in Georgia up to luck and chance.

Sources:
extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/apricots-in-the-home-garden
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1518
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/ST513
extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/prunus-avium/
extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-pear-trees-home-garden

5 Trees Native to Georgia

Avoid planting trees in Georgia that will waste your money and quickly die due to not being compatible. Knowing which trees are native to Georgia will help you plant a vibrant and robust landscape full of thriving trees.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com gathered the following species, planting, and growing information on 5 incredible trees native to the state of Georgia.

What Is a Native Tree

A “native tree” is one that has not been introduced to a region by man and occurs naturally. Native trees are perfect for lowering landscape maintenance as they need less water, are more resistant to insect infestations, and are less likely to be infected by aggressive tree diseases. Consider the following tree species:

1. Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)

The distinctive leaves of the deciduous sugar maple are typically three to five inches in diameter and just as wide. They have five deep lobes that often have a number of narrow, pointed teeth. The leaves are dark green above and pale green underneath.

Lifespan – 300 to 400 years
Mature Size – Sugar maples grow to a height of 60 to 75 feet with a spread of 40 to 50 feet at maturity.
Planting/Watering – The sugar maple grows in deep, well-drained, acidic to slightly alkaline soil. This species prefers moist soil conditions but is moderately drought tolerant. Your sugar maple will need about five gallons of water a week.
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8

2. Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

Magnolias are wide-spreading, evergreen, or deciduous trees characterized by large fragrant flowers which appear bowl-shaped or star-shaped, in shades of white, pink, purple, green, or yellow. For deciduous magnolia species, the blooms will appear before the leaves in the spring. Once the flowers are spent, cone-shaped fruits are produced in the fall.

Lifespan – 80 to 120 years
Mature Size – Southern magnolias grow to a height of 60 to 80 feet with a spread of 40 feet at maturity.
Planting/Watering – The southern magnolia species can be grown in full sun or partial shade. This tree prefers moist, well-drained, acidic soils; the species is tolerant of high moisture levels and can be planted in areas prone to extreme wet or dry fluctuations in soil moisture.
Hardiness Zone – 6 through 10

3. Hardy Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)

Carya illinoinensis (Hardy Pecan) is a tall and massive deciduous species with a large spreading crown boasting beautiful dark olive-green leaves, each one with 11 to 17 pointed leaflets, 4 to 7 inches long, and will turn yellow-brown before leaf drop in the fall.

Lifespan – Over 300 years
Mature Size – Pecans grow to a height of 70 to 150 feet with a spread of 40 to 75 feet at maturity.
Planting/Watering – Pecans can be grown in a wide range of soil types and conditions. However, for best rooting, soils should be deep, fertile, and well-drained with good water holding capacity. The pecans species tend to prefer a sandy loam texture with a clay subsoil. Pecan trees should be deep-watered every 2 weeks.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 9

4. Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus)

The white pine is the largest conifer in the Northeast. This species has a straight trunk with a crown of horizontal branches. This tree’s trunk can grow to a diameter of 3 to 4 feet, and it has slender, greenish-blue needles that grow in bundles of five.

Lifespan – 200 to 450 years
Mature Size – This species grows to a height of 50 to 80 feet with a spread of 20 to 40 feet at maturity.
Planting/Watering – The eastern white pine thrives in acidic, moist, well-drained, and dry soils. While it grows best in moist soil, the tree has been known to tolerate dry, rocky ridges to water-logged bogs.
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8

5. American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)

The American or common persimmon is a slow-growing, moderately sized tree native to Georgia with fruits about 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Unripe fruit from this species is high in tannins, giving them an undesirable astringent taste. The trunk and branches are thin with grey-brown bark and have oval leaves about 6 inches long and alternate down the stems.

Lifespan – 75 to several hundred years
Mature Size – This species can grow to a height of 60 feet with a spread of 25 to 30 feet at maturity.
Planting/Watering – This tree species thrives on loamy, moist soil in areas that get partial to full sun. American persimmons do tolerate poor soil and even hot, dry soil. Your tree will flourish with about an inch of water per week in the growing season.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

Why Plant Native Trees?

Native trees require less of your time and attention because they are adapted to your region on a cellular level, needing less water, less pest deterrents, and will likely reach their whole lifespan without your assistance.

Georgia Native Trees

In this article, you discovered planting and growing information on several hardy native tree species for your Georgia landscape.

Planting native trees require less time, care, and attention as they grow. Georgia native species are resilient to local insects, disease, and weather.

Planting non-native tree species fosters an increased level of infestation, disease, and mortality, which increases the likelihood of you paying for costly treatments and tree removals when they die.

Sources:
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/acer-saccharum/
gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/southern-magnolia.html
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/ST122
uky.edu/hort/Eastern-White-Pine
washcoll.edu/learn-by-doing/food/plants/ebenaceae/diospyros-virginiana.php

What Are the Best Small Flowering Shrubs

Avoid the embarrassment of a dull-looking yard and garden around your Georgia home. Knowing which flowering shrubs to plant around your trees and garden will liven up your landscape.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com gathered information on some of the best small flowering shrubs to plant in your Georgia yard.

Dwarf Flowering Shrubs

Small flowering shrubs used as borders or accents around your yard, your tree, or your garden add excitement to your yard, attract and offer refuge for wildlife, and raise your Georgia home’s curb appeal (potentially increasing the value of your home). Consider the following splendid and small flowering shrub species:

1. Dwarf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

Dwarf hydrangeas are great for small gardens. They grow 3 to 5 feet tall and have beautiful flowers with colors reflecting the soil’s mineral content.

Size – Dwarf hydrangeas grow to an average of 3 to 5 feet tall.
Soil & Sun – Most hydrangea species thrive in fertile, well-draining soil that receives plenty of moisture. Hydrangeas grow best in partial sun. The better combination is full sun in the morning and afternoon shade.
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8
Bloom Time – Hydrangea species typically set buds in early summer that bloom in the following spring, summer, and early fall seasons.

2. Dwarf Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

This aromatic dynamo sports gray-green foliage and its flower colors can be violet, pink, dark purple, bluish-purple, and light purple. All varieties have typical lavender scents and are very well-suited as hedges, borders, or containers.

Size – This compact lavender species typically remains under 2 feet tall.
Soil & Sun – Lavender requires full sun and well-drained, low to moderately-fertile soil to grow best. In hotter climates, afternoon shade may be needed to help them thrive.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 10
Bloom Time – Lavender begins blooming in mid to late spring and continues through early summer.

3. Dwarf Rhododendron (Rhododendron atlanticum)

Rhododendron atlanticum, commonly referred to as dwarf azalea, is a compact, loosely-branched deciduous shrub that typically matures to 2 to 3 feet tall and as wide, but infrequently grows to 6 feet tall. It is a woody, evergreen or deciduous shrub that quickly spreads by underground stolons.

Size – This rhododendron species typically reaches 2 to 3 feet tall.
Soil & Sun – This species thrives when planted in well-drained soil with consistent moisture. However, “wet” soil can lead to root rot.  Mulching with needles, bark, or compost will help the soil stay moist and regulate soil temperature. Rhododendrons will grow quite well in full sun to moderate shade.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 8
Bloom Time – Blooms in red, pink, purple, or white shades occur in April (before its new foliage appears).

4. Blue Honeysuckle (Lonicera caerulea)

This shrub species is commonly known by a variety of names like blue honeysuckle, honeyberry, sweetberry honeysuckle, and haskap. It is a multi-branched, deciduous shrub native to moist boreal forest areas and thriving in northern temperate climates in Asia, Europe, and North America.

Size – This splendid species typically reaches 3 to 5 feet tall.
Soil & Sun – This dwarf species thrives when planted in well-drained moist soil. Blue honeysuckle grows quite well in full morning sun and afternoon shade.
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 7
Bloom Time – Yellowish-white blooms appear in late spring to early summer in pairs along the shoots. Fruit ripens in early summer with a deep blue shade and reddish-purple pulp.

5. Forsythia (Forsythia)

Forsythia is a deciduous and robust shrub. Its stems emerge green, but with time harden and turn woody, featuring rough gray bark. This species sports bright green foliage. However, in the spring, it blooms bright yellow flowers in large quantities.

Size – Several varieties of dwarf forsythia reach only 2 to 3 feet tall.
Soil & Sun – This species thrives when planted in well-drained soil and planted in areas receiving full sun.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 8
Bloom Time – Forsythia flowers bloom in early spring, before its foliage emerges, for a splendid show of abundant, bright yellow blooms.

Above are some of the best flowering shrubs for your Georgia yard; after choosing your shrubs, visit this link if flowering trees are of interest or would further complement your landscape.

Small Blooming Shrubs

In this article, you discovered several small flowering shrub species ideal for bordering a garden, circling a tree, or lining the walkway to your beautiful Georgia home.

Planting small flowering shrubs in your Georgia yard and garden add an explosive springtime show of colorful blooms, raising your home’s curb appeal and market value.

Leaving your yard barren is an extreme source of embarrassment and lost opportunity to increase your home’s beauty and appeal.

Sources:
nursery-crop-extension.ca.uky.edu/content/hydrangea-quercifolia
broomfield.extension.colostate.edu/2020/04/14/dwarf-lavenders-xeric-plant-of-the-month-march/
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/rhododendron-atlanticum/
agresearch.montana.edu/warc/research_current/berries/haskap/index.html
extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/forsythia

10 White Flowering Trees in Georgia

Prevent your yard from being just another patch of greenery in the Georgia landscape. Knowing which white blooming trees to plant in your yard can produce a stunning annual show of unmatched beauty.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com gathered information on ten white blooming trees in Georgia, their hardiness zones, growth, and potential pest problems.

White Blooming Trees in Georgia

Many native and non-native tree species thrive in Georgia due to its accommodating climate – ranging from USDA hardiness zone 6a in the north, to 9a in the state’s southern region. The following are white blooming tree species that can be found flourishing in Georgia, and some helpful planting and care information.

1. Flowering Dogwood

Flowering White Dogwood (Cornus florida) is cold hardy for zones 5b through 9b. This species is deciduous, blooming in early spring. Reaching 20-25 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 25-30 feet across, Cornus florida has a striking appearance when in bloom and can be seen throughout the state growing in landscapes and in the wild. This species often contends with such diseases as blight, canker, and anthracnose, among others. Promoting healthy and vigorous growth and scheduling annual inspections will help detect issues early enough to potentially treat them with success.

2. Kousa Dogwood

Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa) is cold hardy for zones 5b through 8b. This species is deciduous and blooms in late spring. Reaching 15 to 30 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 25 feet across. Sometimes called Chinese Dogwood, this handsome species is noted for its white blooms and exfoliating bark characteristics, making it highly desirable in Georgia landscapes. Also prized for its ability to resist most dogwood diseases, this species remains susceptible to Cercospora and septoria leaf spot, resulting in spotted foliage in warm weather.

3. Ornamental Pears

Callery pear trees (Pyrus calleryana) are cold hardy for zones 4b through 8b. This species is deciduous and blooms in mid to late spring. Reaching 35 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 25 feet across. Pyrus calleryana is more commonly recognized by the Bradford cultivar and is generally not suitable for smaller landscapes due to its aggressive root system. These trees are susceptible to scab, rust, leaf spot, and fire blight.

4. Cherry Trees

Cherry trees (Prunus avium) are cold hardy for zones 5a through 7b. This species is deciduous and reaches its peak blooming season in late March or early April. Reaching up to 40 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 20 feet across, regular pruning can reduce the overall size of your tree. For cherry trees to meet their flowering and fruiting potential, they require 1,000 to 2,000 hours of winter chill. Leaf spots may indicate a diseased cherry tree and should be investigated an ISA certified arborists. Other potential issues include birds and flies feeding on the tree’s fruit when left unharvested.

5. Magnolia Tree

Magnolia trees (Magnolia grandiflora) are cold hardy for zones 7a through 9b. This species is deciduous or evergreen depending on the cultivar and its location, and blooms from late spring through mid-summer. Reaching upwards of 80 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 40 feet across, Magnolia grandiflora grows best in partial or full sunlight with well-drained soil. Magnolias become susceptible to wilts and blights when under prolonged wet conditions.

6. Yellowwood

Pinterest

Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea) is cold hardy for zones 5a through 8b. This species is deciduous and irregularly blooms in spring every 2 or 3 years. Reaching 35 to 50 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 45 feet across, yellowwood trees are often referred to as Virgilia, gopherwood, yellow locust, and sometimes, yellow ash. This species is highly tolerant to most pests and diseases but may become susceptible to Verticillium wilt, root decay, and cankers when stressed. Avoid these problems by promoting the tree’s health and vigorous growth.

7. Natchez Crape Myrtle

Natchez Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei) is cold hardy for zones 7a through10a. This species is deciduous and blooms in spring and summer. Reaching 25 to 30 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 25 feet across, Natchez Crape Myrtle is both disease and pest-resistant, making it a superb addition to most Georgia landscapes.

8. American Holly

American holly (Ilex opaca) is cold hardy for zones 5a through 9b. This species is evergreen and blooms in mid-spring through mid-summer. Reaching 50 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 40 feet across. American holly, while very desirable, comes with multiple pest and disease susceptibility including scale, bud moth, beetles, whitefly, southern red mite, leaf spots, cankers, leaf miner, bacterial blight, anthracnose, leaf drop, powdery mildew, twig dieback, and leaf scorch.

9. Royal White Redbud

Pinterest

Royal White Redbud (Cercis canadensis – Alba) is cold hardy for zones 5a through 9b. This species is deciduous and blooms in the spring. Reaching up to 35 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 35 feet across. The heart-shaped leaves on this tree make it an attractive specimen or accent for Georgia landscapes. Redbuds are susceptible to caterpillars, scale, leafhoppers, wilt, and canker diseases. Annual inspections will help detect developing problems.

10. Hydrangea Tree

Hydrangea trees (Hydrangea paniculata) are cold hardy for zones 5a through 8a. This species is deciduous and blooms in late spring and early summer. Reaching 15 to 20 feet in height with a mature canopy spanning up to 15 feet across, hydrangeas are more often thought of as large shrubs rather than small trees. Nonetheless, this species’ gorgeous flowers can last through fall, making it highly sought after for Georgia gardens and landscapes. Scale, aphids, and beetles can become problems for this species without proper care.

Flowering Trees in Georgia

In this article, you discovered 10 white flowering Georgia tree species, their cold hardiness zones, dimensions at maturity, and potential pest and disease issues.

Planting white flowering trees in your Georgia landscape will provide an annual show of bright white contrasting against structures and other plants on your property.

Don’t have your property be just another dull patch of greenery, include some of the beautiful white blooming trees in your Georgia landscape.

Sources:
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C900&title=Growing%20Dogwoods
plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_cofl2.pdf
hort.ufl.edu/database/documents/pdf/tree_fact_sheets/lagxe.pdf
uky.edu/hort/American-Holly
selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/cercis-canadensis-alba
extension.psu.edu/dogwood-diseases

Georgia Tree Pests and Diseases

Prevent your Georgia trees from falling victim to killer pests and diseases. By knowing how to identify a distressed tree and its cause, you can take measures to keep it alive and protect surrounding trees.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com gathered information on common tree pests and diseases found in Georgia, how to treat them, and how to prevent them.

Protecting Your Georgia Trees

Georgia tree species have spent millennia evolving and adapting to climate change, aggressive tree pests, and invasive diseases. While trees are highly effective at protecting themselves, your ability to detect potentially devastating pest infestations and diseases can aide in the preservation of Georgia’s tree population.

The following are pests and diseases commonly found to afflict Georgia tress:

Pine Bark Beetles (SPB, BTB, and Ips)

Pine bark beetles are among the most destructive insects affecting pines in the State of Georgia. They occur across all land types and geographic regions of the state. Since 1962 annual losses from pine bark beetle outbreaks have exceeded $5 million in the state.

The species most responsible for infesting Georgia pines include:

• SPB – Southern Pine Beetle
• BTB – Black Turpentine Beetle
• Engraver Beetle – Ips Beetle

Adult bark beetles are about 3/32″ in length and reddish-brown to black. Trees are affected and killed when thousands of adult beetles bore beneath the bark to feed and lay eggs. Fungi are carried from tree to tree by the beetles. These fungi invade the water-conducting tissues (xylem and phloem), causing hydraulic failure. This results in the needles drying more rapidly.

Signs and Symptoms – Signs of beetle attacks include:

• Pitch tubes
• Boring dust
• Needles will turn yellow-green, then red, then brown

The time it takes for needles to begin fading after a beetle attack can range from 2 weeks (attacked in the summer) to 2 months (attacked in early spring or late fall).

Affected Species – Pine bark beetles attack all species of southern yellow pines (sapling, pulpwood, and timber size). It is extremely destructive in mature and crowded stands. Infestations are often fueled by droughts, flooding, lightning strikes, and human disturbances.

How It Spreads – Adult beetles take flight and move from tree to tree. These beetles are more successful when mounting attacks on trees in decline or stressed from other factors. Healthy trees may also become infested after multiple attacks reduce the effectiveness of their defenses.

How To Treat It – Pine trees that have been successfully attacked by beetles cannot be saved by applying an insecticide to the bark or by injecting the substance into the tree. Homeowners should beware of persons advocating using chemicals to control any species of pine bark beetle.

The most effective step in stopping a beetle infestation is to remove and destroy all infested trees. Remaining healthy trees can be treated and protected by applying an approved insecticide to the tree’s outer bark (on the entire tree).

The best treatment against bark beetles is to prevent them. You can accomplish this by:

• Promoting the health and vigorous growth of your trees
• Treating the bark of your trees
• Removing and destroying infested trees
• Immediately remove trees after being struck by lightning
• Reporting suspected infestations in your area

As pines reach maturity and continue aging, their susceptibility to bark beetles steadily increases. In regions where outbreaks are confirmed, these trees must be protected or removed to slow or halt the beetle’s spread.

Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis)

The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) belongs to a group of metallic wood-boring beetles. Unlike Georgia’s native beetles that infest and kill weakened trees, emerald ash borers attack and kill vigorously growing and weakened ash trees. EAB is not native to the United States and was first found in Michigan in 2002.

The July 2013 discovery of Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) in Georgia prompted a regional quarantine which, by 2017, resulted in the quarantine of the entire state. This quarantine regulates and restricts transportation of the following:

• Emerald Ash Borer in any of its life stages
• Firewood of all hardwood species
• Ash nursery stock
• Green (non-heat treated) ash lumber
• Any living, dead, cut, or fallen material of the tree genus Fraxinus, including logs, stumps, roots, limbs, and composted and non-composted chips that have not been ground to a small enough size to destroy EAB in any of its life stages

Characteristics and habits of the EAB include:

• Adult EAB are bright, metallic, and emerald green in color
• They are less than 1/2 inch long and feed on ash foliage, although that damage is typically minimal
• EAB larvae feed on the inner bark of ash trees, impeding a tree’s ability to transport water and nutrients, killing the tree
• Larvae tunnel S-shaped galleries on trees
• There may be bulging and vertical splitting of bark over larval galleries
• EAB adults make D-shaped exit holes on the bark of infested trees

Once an ash tree is infested by EAB, it will most likely die. Ash trees have little to no defense against this tree killer. For this reason, even the healthiest, most vigorous ash trees can be successfully attacked and killed.

Signs and Symptoms – When an ash tree is successfully attacked by EAB, symptoms are quick to appear and include:

• Canopy dieback starting in the top of the canopy and spreading until the tree is bare
• Growth of epicormic shoots (sprouts growing from the trunk and roots)
• Large holes left by woodpeckers foraging for larvae and pupae
• Bulging areas of bark with vertical splitting (over galleries)

If you suspect an EAB infestation, find and contact your local County Extension Office at caes.uga.edu/extension/office.cfm or your local Georgia Forestry Commission Office at gfc.state.ga.us/about-us/contact-us/county-units/index.cfm

Affected Species – As the name suggests, EAB attacks ash species including:

• Green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
• Black ash (Fraxinus nigra)
• White ash (Fraxinus americana)
• Blue ash (Fraxinus quadrangulata)

EAB has also been found infesting non-ash hosts such as white fringe tree (Chionanthus Virginicus) in North America.

How It Spreads – After adults emerge from their host, they proceed to the tree’s canopy and feed on the tree’s foliage. Males will hover around the trees in search of females to mate with. Mated females will then lay eggs, on the same or new host tree, between bark crevices, flakes, or cracks.

After eggs hatch, larvae chew through the bark to reach the phloem and xylem layers, where they feed and develop, starting the insect’s lifecycle again.

How To Treat It – Once infested, there are no known treatments, and the tree will need to be removed and destroyed.

Under normal circumstances, promoting the tree’s health and vigor is the first line of defense for trees. In the case of EAB, this is not enough. Ash trees have no defenses against an EAB attack.

Insecticides can be applied to ash trees by direct application, injection, or soil drench as a preventive measure. These insecticides should only be administered by licensed applicators and do not guarantee the tree’s safety or preservation.

If you suspect an EAB infestation or have become aware of a nearby infestation, contact an ISA certified arborist to evaluate your landscape and present a course of action to preserve your trees.

Dutch Elm Disease (Ascomycota)

This is a vascular wilt disease that has decimated the country’s elm tree (Ulmaceae family) population throughout the last century.

In 1930, a Dutch scientist, Christine Johanna Buisman, first identified DED in Ohio. The disease then spread up and down the US east coast and then across the continent, until reaching the west coast in the early 1970s. Tens of millions of American elm trees have perished to this disease. Today, DED continues to be a destructive disease of all elm tree species in the US.

Signs and Symptoms – Once the symptoms of DED appear, fast action must be taken to contain the disease. Consider the following:

• Yellowing and wilting of leaves on individual branches
• As branches die, the leaves curl up and turn brown
• Dead leaves may remain attached to the tree
• Initially affected leaves are at the extremity of the crown
• Progression of the disease causes the entire crown to show symptoms
• Sapwood discoloration

Trees infected with DED via beetle vectors will likely develop initial symptoms in the crown’s upper extremities. Trees infected by the disease via root grafts first develop symptoms in the lower parts of the crown.

Note: When the disease is introduced through a root graft, it can be quickly distributed throughout the tree’s vascular system. When this infection method occurs in early spring, a completely healthy elm can decline and die by mid-summer.

Tip: Other wilt diseases that affect elm trees, such as Verticillium wilt, also cause similar foliar symptoms and sapwood discoloration. Positive DED diagnoses should be made by laboratory examination.

Affected Species – All US native elm species are vulnerable to DED, including:

• American elm (Ulmus americana)
• Red or slippery elm (Ulmus rubra)
• Rock elm (Ulmus thomasii)

While this may seem like a bleak prognosis, hybrid elm species are being produced that are resistant to DED.

How It Spreads – Carried by bark beetles primarily, here are the beetle species most likely to spread DED:

• Elm bark beetle (Hylurgopinus rufipes)
• European elm bark beetle (Scolytus multistriatus)
• Banded elm bark beetle (S. schevyrewi)


Source: Pinterest

Adult females of elm bark beetles lay eggs under the bark of recently dead or dying trees, or in cut wood. Larvae then feed on the inner bark and sapwood of the tree, creating galleries as they feed.


If the attacked tree is infected with or was killed by DED, spores will be present in the wood. When these beetles emerge as adults from infected trees, they come carrying spores of the fungus in and on their bodies.


As beetles move on to healthy elms chewing through the bark, spores are knocked off the beetle’s body within the tree, starting a new DED infection.


When elm trees grow in close proximity, DED can spread from an infected tree to a healthy tree via grafted roots.

How To Treat It – Treating DED is tricky, to say the least. Several thorough inspections of all elm trees in an area must be performed during every growing season. Infected wood or trees must be aggressively pruned or removed, burned, chipped, or buried so it cannot house beetle vectors.

Likewise, for elms planted in rows or within 10 to 15 feet of one-another, steps must be taken to break and prevent root grafts between these trees.

Chemical management of Dutch elm disease can be used to protect elm trees of high value. Such fungicides are costly and should be administered by a licensed tree service professional. This tree company can help with tree health assessments, tree removal, and pest or disease treatments:

Note: Chemical treatments are used mostly as a preventive measure.

When opportunities to plant or replant present themselves, select disease-resistant elm cultivars. Elm breeders have spent decades to produce hybrid and clonal elms resistant to Dutch elm disease. Educate yourself and learn more about tree planting and care before planting the above species in Georgia.

Seiridium Canker (Seiridium Unicorne)

In Georgia, Seiridium canker is one of the most prevalent and destructive diseases affecting Leyland cypress in the general landscape.

While the fungi Seiridium cardinale, Seiridium unicorne, and Seiridium cupressi have been reported to cause diseases on Leyland cypress and other needled evergreens, only Seiridium unicorne is associated with cankers and twig dieback. Leyland cypress specimens of all sizes and ages can be adversely affected by the disease in the landscape.

Signs and Symptoms – Seiridium Canker symptoms are most likely to appear in early spring can be seen at any time of the year, and may include:

• Yellowing or browning of the foliage on one or more top or lateral branches
• Formation of numerous thin, elongated cankers on stems and branches
• Cankers cause twig and branch dieback
• Cankers are slightly sunken, with raised margins, and discolored dark brown to purple cracked bark in infected areas can be accompanied by extensive amounts of resin flowing down diseased branches
• Cambial tissue beneath oozing area will be reddish to brown in color

Disease expansion will often continue until a significant portion of the host tree is dead.

Affected Species – Seiridium cardinale, Seiridium unicorne, and Seiridium cupressi all affect multiple needled evergreen species in the cypress family, including:

• Chamaecyparis
• Cupressus
• Cryptomeria japonica
• Juniperus
• Libocedrus
• Platycladus
• Taxodium
• Thuja

However, cultivated Leyland cypress (Cupressus × leylandii), often referred to simply as leylandii, is most affected.

How It Spreads – When overhead watering and rainy weather, fruiting bodies of the disease release spores spread by splashing water. This water splashes and travels, carrying the infection to open wounds on stressed trees. Infection on multiple branches of a tree or on the trunk can kill the entire tree quickly.

How To Treat It – This fungus survives in infected bark tissue. Once the disease is confirmed, prune and destroy all infected branches 3 to 4 inches below the affected area. If the disease is present on the trunk, consider removing the tree altogether.

After pruning or removal, sterilize all equipment after use on an infected tree with a 10% bleach or a 70% alcohol solution to prevent the spread of this fungus.

Prevent winter-related damage by:

• Multiple deep waterings in late fall
• Cover trees with burlap
• Mulch the root plate to prevent ground freeze

Promoting your tree’s health and preventing damage of any sort will help you keep your tree healthy and disease-free.

Currently, there are no fungicides proven to be highly effective in controlling this disease.

Georgia Tree Pest And Disease Prevention

In this article, you discovered several tree-killing pests and diseases found in the state of Georgia, how to identify them, treat them, and prevent them.

By knowing how to identify and treat pests and diseases, you can take swift action to save your tree and prevent pests and diseases from spreading throughout your neighborhood.

When you ignore the signs of a tree in decline, you risk losing your tree quickly and spreading the disease or pest to your entire landscape and beyond.

Source:
forestpests.org/georgia/pinebarkbeetles.html
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1238&title=Common%20Landscape%20Diseases%20in%20Georgia
agr.georgia.gov/emerald-ash-borer-eab.aspx
gainvasives.org/eab/
extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/plant-disease/landscape-tree-disease/seiridium-canker
apsnet.org/edcenter/disandpath/fungalasco/pdlessons/Pages/DutchElm.aspx
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/dutch-elm-disease

Tree Planting and Care in Georgia

Don’t let your Georgia trees die from lack of proper care. With basic tree care knowledge and a little effort, you can plant and keep your trees healthy and know what to do when problems arise.

georgiatreecare.wordpress.com assembled professional tips on tree planting, care basics, diseases, insects, and other common tree problems and solutions to create this comprehensive Georgia tree care guide.

Tree Planting in Georgia

Due to Georgia’s fertile land and moderate climate, planting and growing trees in the state is relatively easy to do. When planning a new landscape or just adding a tree to your yard, consider the following:

USDA Hardiness Zone Map – Plant and tree species have a better chance at thriving when planted in locations with similar temperatures to their native locations.

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 planting zones. Each planting zone is approximately 10°F colder (or warmer) than the adjacent zone during a typical winter season. When reading a tree description and you see “zone” or “hardiness zone,” it is referring to the USDA Hardiness Zone map. The hardiness zones found in Georgia are:

• 6a and 6b
• 7a and 7b
• 8a and 8b
• 9a

To find the corresponding zone to your location on the hardiness zone map, go to planthardiness.ars.usda.gov and click on the state of Georgia.

Understory or Overstory Trees – An understory tree is a tree that grows to a maximum height of about 40 feet, and might be best if your planting location is restricted or you desire a mid-sized tree. The following species are considered understory, and are shade tolerant:

• Flowering Dogwood
• Crepe Myrtle
• Eastern Redbud
• White Fringetree
• Japanese Maple
• Black Aldar

If you have the real estate to accommodate its growth, the following overstory species reach mature heights of up to and over 100 feet:

• Southern Magnolia
• Poplar
• Hickory
• Green Ash
• Pine Trees
• White Oak
• Southern Red Oak

Tip: Understory trees can be planted near and around overstory trees to divert strong or persistent winds.

Deciduous or Evergreen Trees – On a very general basis, trees can be divided between evergreen and deciduous species.

If you are looking for a tree that will maintain a lush green appearance year-round, you are seeking an evergreen species which may include:

• Blue Spruce
• Pine Trees
• Arborvitae
• Magnolia
• HollyLeyland
• Cypress

It is important to note that evergreen trees will drop and replace foliage throughout the year. A severe loss or browning of the foliage, at any given time, may indicate disease, infestation, drought, or a nutrient imbalance.

If you enjoy fall colors as your tree prepares for dormancy in the winter, you are looking for one of the deciduous species which include:

• Oaks
• Maples
• Birch
• Sweetgum
• Tulip
• Aspen

Tip: Regarding aspens, the species has a vigorously invasive root system and will produce suckers that are clones of the original or mother tree. When planting this species, make certain that it has enough space to grow and spread without obstruction.

72 Tree Removal Services Alpharetta is an Alpharetta Ga tree service company with an arborist that’s an expert on tree planting and everything tree care related. If you live in North Georgia this crew is pure gold:

Planting Location – Before you plant a tree, it is wise to know the space it will occupy at maturity. Knowing the area your tree is going to need will help you determine how far it should be planted from structures and foundations.

Potential problems of planting a tree too close to a structure include:

• Branches falling (self-pruning) onto the structure.
• Roots growing under and buckling the foundation, sidewalk, driveway, etc.
• Uneven or unbalanced root development causing the tree to topple onto the structure.

Don’t forget to look up. Planting trees underneath power lines or close to them creates a potentially lethal combination once the tree is tall enough to interfere with the power lines.

Tree Care Basics

Caring for your tree starts before it is planted. By creating an optimal growing environment, you are giving your tree its best opportunity to grow long, deep roots and flourish throughout its lifetime. The following are tips to help you give your tree what it needs to thrive:

Soil Preparation – Each tree species grows better in slightly different soil compositions and types. The four principal types of soil are:

• Clay (dense and poorly drained)
• Sand (difficulty in retaining moisture and establishing roots)
• Silt (granular quartz or feldspar sized between clay and sand)
• Loam (a combination of the other three soil types)

While some tree species have adapted to grow in clay or sand soils, the vast majority flourish in silt or loam soil.

Soil pH Level – Each tree species will also have a preferred pH level. For example, pine trees are better off in acidic soil, while most hardwoods prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil.

Neutral soils contain a pH level of 6.5 to 7.5, acidic soils remain at levels below 6.5, and basic soils maintain a pH level above 7.5. The pH level of the soil can be lowered when sulfur or one of several fertilizers are mixed into it. The soil pH level can be raised by adding organic mulch or lime.

When planting a tree, the soil to fill in the hole and within a five-foot radius around the trunk should have its pH adjusted to meet the growth requirements of the tree.

Soil tests should be performed every four to six months for the first few years of growth. Root development, erosion, and other natural elements can cause fluctuations in the soil’s pH and should be adjusted as needed.

Watering Your Tree – Newly planted trees (in well-drained soil) require deep waterings every other week for about two years. Deep watering is when a slow stream of water penetrates more than ten to twelve inches deep into the soil.

By providing deep waterings, roots are encouraged to grow deeper and avoid surfacing. Surface roots are prone to damage, allowing successful attacks by insects, fungi, or both.

During the rainy season in Georgia, deep waterings can be further spaced apart, once every three weeks. During times of drought, these waterings should occur weekly.

Fertilizing Your Tree – We fertilize trees to provide essential nutrients and minerals that keep them flourishing and healthy. Healthy trees are more capable of defending themselves from infestations and diseases.

Timing is fundamental when fertilizing trees. Take the following into consideration:

• Newly planted trees should not be fertilized until the beginning of their second growing season.
• Trees should never be fertilized in mid to late summer. This encourages new growth that will not have time to acclimate for the winter months.
• Annual summer-time soil tests should be performed to determine which fertilizer composition to use.

While some may dispute when the best time is to fertilize trees, the majority consensus is to fertilize in late fall or late winter.

If your tree is showing signs of wilting, reduced leaf size, yellowing in the summer months, or early color change and leaf drop, you may need to adjust the composition of your fertilizer. However, before adjusting your fertilizer, it is essential that an infection or infestation be ruled out as the cause of the symptoms.

The following are common methods of fertilizer delivery:

• Surface application is the spreading of granular fertilizer on the ground around the tree.
• Foliar fertilization is the application of liquid fertilizer directly to the foliage of the tree.
• Fertilizer spikes can be driven into the ground around the base of the tree.
• Fertilizer holes are made by digging one-inch by eighteen-inch holes spaced around the base of the tree and filled with fertilizer.
• Fertilizer injections can be applied by drilling a hole into a tree trunk, injecting the fertilizer, then plugging the hole (the long-term effects of this method are still being evaluated).

Mulching Your Tree – Mulching your tree plays an essential roll in protecting its roots from overheating, drying out, or freezing. Consider mulch like an all-season protective blanket when properly applied.

Mulch is used to mimic the natural “blanket” formed around the base of a tree by falling foliage or needles. Besides regulating soil temperature and moisture, mulch is also highly effective at:

• Preventing soil compaction by serving as a “Do Not Park” indicator for vehicles and heavy equipment
• Stoping weed growth
• Insulating the soil from hot and freezing temperatures
• Improving soil fertility and health as it decomposes
• Aiding in the prevention of soil erosion
• Enhancing the visual appeal of the landscape
• Preventing lawnmower and landscaping equipment damage to the tree’s root flare and trunk.

The following are simple steps to mulch your tree properly:

• Establish a “no mulch zone” 8 to 12 inches from the root flare all the way around the tree.
• Remove or cut surrounding grass as low as possible from the “no mulch zone” to the tree’s dripline. (the dripline is the circle around a tree where the canopy ends)
• Collect and test a soil sample for its pH level and nutrient content.
• Provide a deep watering to the entire area to be mulched.
• Apply a 3 to 4-inch layer (up to 6 inches for areas with prolonged winter freezes) of mulch from the “no mulch zone” to the tree’s dripline.
• Make certain the mulch is not in contact with the tree’s trunk or root flare (to avoid rot and disease).
• Adjust the soil’s pH level or enrich it by applying fertilizer directly to the mulch. No need to mix it in, as watering and rain will carry it to the soil and roots.

Mulch should be fluffed up or replaced (if riddled with fungi and mold) in the fall. Never allow your mulch to rest against the root flare or tree trunk, this can cause the area to decay, destabilize the tree, and kill it.

Pruning Your Tree – Pruning is commonly defined as the removal of specific stems, branches, and limbs for the benefit of the entire tree. Pruning can also serve to:

• Thin the tree’s canopy
• Reduce the height of the tree
• Raise the canopy
• Remove insect-infested limbs
• Halt the progression of some diseases
• Remove dead branches or limbs
• Encourage new growth
• Shape the form of the tree
• Avoid power line or utility interference
• Safeguard underlying structures

Small branches and twigs can be pruned whenever needed, and at any time of the year. Branches comprising over 5-10% of the crown or more than one inch in diameter should only be pruned in late fall or winter when the tree is dormant.

When pruning smaller limbs, cut them off flush with the branch collar. These cuts should be made smooth and flat without damaging the branch collar.

Avoid tearing bark from the underside of larger or heavier branches and down the trunk by using a 3-cut method:

Cut #1 is the relief cut and should be 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk on the underside of the branch and should go 1/4 of the way through the branch (this is a stopping point if the bark should tear as the branch falls).

Cut #2 is made 6 to 12 inches further out from cut #1. This is a top-down cut and removes the branch from the tree.

Cut #3 is flush with the branch collar, removing the remaining – more manageable – portion of the branch.

If there is any doubt about the necessity to remove a branch or limb, or your capability to do so safely (branches and limbs may be much heavier than they appear to be), contact a professional tree service to evaluate the tree and offer guidance.

Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta are experts at pruning, cutting, and emergency tree removal throughout Metro Atlanta. If you live in the city limits this is who can help you:

Annual Inspections and Hazard Assessments – A fundamental component of tree care is conducting an annual inspection or having a tree hazard assessment performed to detect and prevent illnesses and injury that may kill the tree.

Tree hazard (or tree risk) assessments reveal information to the surveyor and the tree owner about the health and stability of the tree being surveyed. These assessments are used to determine:

• The tree’s health and stability
• Whether the tree will remain stable during severe weather
• If the tree is an infestation or disease threat to surrounding trees
• If the tree is a pending threat to surrounding structures or people
• If a course of action including pruning or removal is necessary

The older a tree becomes, the more it will require inspections and hazard assessments. As trees age, they naturally become more massive, less flexible, and more susceptible to disease, rot, and infestations.

Common Georgia Tree Disease Identification and Treatments

The following diseases affect trees throughout the state of Georgia and should be addressed immediately upon diagnosis to prevent the death of the tree and spread of the disease:

Anthracnose – Tree anthracnose is caused by a fungal infection from a variety of fungal species. It is fueled by rainy weather conditions, insect contact, and human activities like pruning with infected equipment, splashing water, and composting infected plant material.

Symptoms of anthracnose include:

• Bud and twig death
• Dead spots on leaves
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Premature leaf drop
• Cankers
• Acervuli (dark-colored pimple-like fruiting structures on twigs and the underside of leaves)

Anthracnose treatment and prevention measures include:

• Sterilize your gardening and pruning equipment after each use and between each tree
• Use fungicides to curtail the disease from spreading
• Use watering systems that do not spray or splash water
• Destroy fallen leaves from infected trees
• Prune back infected areas with dead twigs, infected foliage, and cankers

If these pruning activities will affect more than 25% of the tree’s crown, call a professional tree service for guidance.

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services is another local tree expert that removes diseased and damaged trees. If you are near Marietta or northwest Georgia, these are your guys:

Fire Blight – This disease is caused by bacteria that commonly attack fruit trees and, like anthracnose, can be easily spread by rainy weather conditions, insect and bird contact, pruning with infected equipment, splashing water, and composting blight-infected plant material.

Symptoms of fire blight include

• Flowers and blooms will turn black and die
• Twigs will turn black and curl over as they die
• Leaves on infected branches wilt and turn black
• Cankers develop where the disease is present

Fire blight has no cure. Extensive pruning, together with bactericides, is necessary to combat the spreading of the disease.

Pest control and strict sanitation regimens for tools and equipment are fundamental in preventing the disease’s spread.

Common Georgia Insect Infestation Identification and Treatments

The following tree pests are common throughout the state of Georgia and can result in the destruction of acres of trees if allowed to reach infestation proportions:

Ambrosia Beetle – The granulate ambrosia beetle (Xylosandrus Crassiusculus) is responsible for the decline and death of countless trees in Georgia and the southern states.

Among the many tree species affected by this beetle are crape myrtles, magnolias, oaks, willows, peach, Japanese maples, ash, dogwood, beech, and birch. Some of the signs of an ambrosia beetle infestation are:

• Wilting of terminal foliage on branches and twigs.
• Severe dieback.
• Entry holes on the trunk, branch, or twig.
• Blackening of the tissue surrounding the entry hole or of the “pith” which is the nutrient-rich tissue beneath the xylem and phloem in branches, twigs, and stems.
• Sawdust “toothpicks” protruding from the hole bored into the tree.

Controlling an ambrosia beetle infestation relies heavily on preventative measures. Your unaffected trees should be treated with insecticides to dissuade the beetle from attacking them.

Using insecticides on trees that have already become hosts will have little to no effect. At this point, you are not only fighting the beetle, but the ambrosia fungus being cultivated within the tree to feed the emerging offspring.

The use of fungicides to control the ambrosia fungus may be carried into the tree’s hydraulic system killing it. That’s if the extensive pruning to remove the beetle doesn’t kill the tree first.

In all cases of boring insects, it is recommended to hire a professional tree service to evaluate the situation and make recommendations as to the proper course of action. Your case may be one of many in an outbreak, and if you mishandle a beetle infestation, it could be the source of the outbreak.

Carpenter Ants – You may not think of ants as tree-boring insects, and you are correct. The presence of carpenter ants entering and exiting holes in your tree is a sign of something far more urgent.

Carpenter ants don’t chew their way into the heartwood of a tree; they will, however, remove the heartwood softened by a fungal infection and build a nest for their colony within the tree.

Previous infestations, poor pruning habits, and disease can all contribute to the declining health of a tree, and the successful infestation of it by opportunistic carpenter ants. Knots, old insect tunnels, holes, cracks, and poorly healed pruning cuts all give carpenter ants access to your tree.

In advanced cases of internal decay, mushroom conks will also grow from the trunk, branches, and root flare of the tree.

A carpenter ant infestation should be addressed by a professional tree service immediately to evaluate the stage of internal damage to your tree and whether or not it can be successfully treated.

Tree Removal Permit Process in Atlanta, Georgia

While tree removal permit requirements vary from city to city, the requirements outlined in the City of Atlanta are worth citing, as they serve to protect the city’s tree canopy, while making sure that dead, dying, or dangerous trees are correctly eliminated.

When your tree is dead, dying, diseased, or severely infested, the following steps will help you attain a tree removal permit in the City of Atlanta:

Step One: Fill out and submit a tree removal permit application. Applications can be mailed, faxed, emailed or delivered in-person to the City of Atlanta Arborist Division at 55 Trinity Avenue, 3rd Floor – Suite 3800, Atlanta, Georgia 30303

Step Two: Within 5 business days, an assigned arborist will visit and complete a field inspection.

Step Three: If the application is approved, the field inspection report will be returned to you and must remain on-site while the tree removal process takes place.

Appeal: If your permit is denied, an appeal may be made to the Tree Conservation Commission, at which time a public hearing will take place where you can explain your situation and request a reversal of the denial.

To learn more about tree removal permits in Atlanta or other cities in the state of Georgia, visit treeremovalpermit.com/georgia/.

Power Line or Utility Interfering Tree

Throughout Georgia, intense rainstorms, hailstorms, wind, snow, and flooding are all commonplace occurrences. When severe weather strikes, trees in weakened conditions are bound to topple.

When those trees fall on or get tangled in power lines, never attempt to free, prune, or remove the tree from those power lines. Trees can become energized by electrical currents and electrocute you.

Residents throughout Georgia, where Georgia Power provides electrical services, are encouraged to report any tree on public or private property, which poses a hazard to power lines by calling (888) 891-0938 and pressing option #3 – dangerous condition.

If you reside in one of the four Georgia counties where Georgia Power does not provide electrical services, locate your most recent light bill and contact your provider to remove or cut an interfering tree.

Tree Care in Georgia

In this article, you discovered pro tips for tree planting and care, and what to do when problems arise.

Don’t let your trees wither and die because of your lack of knowledge about what they need to thrive when planted and as they mature.

When tree emergencies arise, your fast and deliberate response could mean the difference between a simple pruning job or the complete removal of the tree.

Azalea and Crepe Myrtle Tree Care

Azaleas are of the most beautiful perennial shrubs you can plant in your yard. Crepe myrtle or crape myrtle is a native southern tree that thrives in US Hardiness zones 7 through 10. For these reasons, either of these species are a perfect choice for your Georgia yard.

Planting azaleas or crepe myrtles in your Georgia yard will give a seasonal color show with their signature blooms every year. While azaleas are easy to care for shrubs, they are slow growers well worth the effort and wait.

Of all the southern trees and plants, crepe myrtle and azaleas are among the most desired for their outstanding spring and summer display of blooms, as well as their brilliant fall colors. The georgiatreecare.wordpress.com team collected the following planting, blooming, toxicology, and care information for those wanting to add azaleas or crepe myrtles to their yard or landscape.

Crepe Myrtle Tree Care

Within two years of planting, these species develop a high tolerance to drought, heat, humidity, and will do well in practically any well-drained soil. They become robust to the point of resprouting even after being frozen solid.

Crepe myrtles are a low maintenance species. However, some planning is required before planting and there’s a bit of maintenance as they grow.

Planting – Location is crucial when planting a crepe myrtle. Select a location with well-drained soil that gets full sun. Planting in partial or full shade significantly reduces its capacity to flower and potentially reduces its lifespan.

Crepe myrtles have a very shallow and fibrous root system, which can spread out 3 to 4 times the diameter of the tree’s canopy. The planting location should be at least 5 to 10 feet away from cement pathways, driveways, foundations, and sidewalks.

Pruning – Little pruning is needed. Improper pruning will disrupt the development of a healthy branching system and in turn, leaves your tree deformed and extremely vulnerable to pests, weather, and fungi.

Planting and Caring for Azaleas

Planted in an appropriate location and supplied with the proper care, azaleas will thrive and give onlookers a springtime show of color annually.

Planting Season – Fall and spring are typically the best times for planting azaleas. In cooler regions like USDA Hardiness Zones 4 and 5, planting should happen in summertime. In warmer areas such as zone 9, planting can occur in the winter.

Planting Location – Sun tolerance varies by species. When planting azaleas, look for partly shaded areas, near hedges, beneath tree canopies, or on the east or north side of your home. Locations well sheltered from wind are best.

Soil Type and pH – Well-drained, moisture-retentive, and humus-rich soil offers the best growing conditions. Soil composed of heavy clay or with sandy properties needs a significant amount of organic material turned into it.

Azaleas will do best in acidic soil. A pH level of 4.5 to 6.0 is needed to provide the best health and growth conditions.

Azalea Care for Your Georgia Landscape

Azaleas and crape myrtles are gorgeous additions to any yard or landscape. However, before planting them, it is crucial to know not only what you are planting, but how to plant it, and how to care for it.

Thus far, we’ve discussed how to properly plant and water azaleas and crepe myrtles. We outlined how to choose the right location and how to prepare the soil for both of these species.

Without proper planting and care, these trees will struggle and may fail to reach maturity, becoming susceptible to infestations and disease. By following the above guidance before, during, and after planting, your azalea or crepe myrtle will respond with healthy growth and beautiful blooms in the coming seasons.

What Tree Stump Grinding Costs

Grinding tree stumps is one of the easiest and fastest ways to rid your property of a tree stump. Normally, you would either opt to go about this yourself or hire a certified tree stump grinding company to do it for you.

In either case, you’ll have to part with some amount of money. That is, if you don’t have the equipment, more than likely you’ll want to hire a stump grinding specialist or a certified tree service company. The prices are never constant – since they vary depending on a number of factors – but still quite reasonable compared to the cost of removing a tree.

Stump Grinding Prices for Georgia Trees

There are a number of factors these companies consider while quoting their prices, and at georgiatreecare.wordpress.com we found the most common considerations are:

Stump Diameter – on average, most of these companies will charge a minimum of $100 with most having a rate of about $3 per inch (diameter of the stump). This implies that, assuming one has a total of 10 stumps to grind whose average diameter is about 10 inches; then, you’ll pay $300 for the service. The larger the diameter of the stump, the higher the amount of money an individual is likely to pay for the service.

Hourly Rates – in situations where a company has been hired to remove several stumps within farm, most of them will resort to hourly rates as opposed to fixed charges. Averagely, most companies charge about $150 per hour.

Number of Tree Stumps – to estimate the tree stump grinding cost, you have to know the number of stumps. Many companies offer some discounts for subsequent stump removal services.

That is, they can remove the first stump at a total cost of $150 and give 40% discount for any additional tree stumps to be removed. It’s wise to take advantage of this as it will help you to save in the long run.

Stump Grinding Costs & Things to Know

Rates for renting a grinder are not consistent either, as they depend on the person or company who owns the grinder, and the model and the capability of the grinder. For superior stump grinders, you’ll have to pay more. But, on average, when you rent a grinder for half a day, you’ll pay between $75 and $150. For a whole day, you’re likely to pay between $250 and $400.

Grind It or Hire to Grind

Hopefully, This information will help you get a rough idea of how much you’re likely to spend when you want to remove stumps from your landscape. The decision you are left with is to do it yourself or have it done.

Two clear questions for this decision should be “Can I do this safely on my own?” and “Are the time and effort worth the investment?” If the answer to either is “No.” Then hire a professional tree service to do it for you.